Wave Whisperer: The Art of Prediction

Wave surfing in the North Sea

Welcome to your first step towards becoming a true “golf whisperer”! Whether you're dreaming of that perfect ride or just want to know when it's best to roll out of bed for a session, here you'll learn how to predict the waves of the North Sea like a pro. We delve deeper into the secrets of wind, swell, tides and everything in between. Because let's face it, surfing is a lot more than throwing your board in the car and hoping you don't end up paddling into a soup of messy waves. So put on your wetsuit, put on your surf headband, and let's unleash your inner wave whisperer!

1. How do waves form in the North Sea?

Waves in the North Sea are caused by the wind blowing over the water surface. This sea is relatively shallow and smaller than an ocean such as the Atlantic Ocean, which means that the waves form differently here. The strength, duration and direction of the wind, together with the distance the wind travels over the water (fetch), determine the size and power of the waves.

Brief explanation of the process:

• Wind force: The stronger the wind, the more energy is transferred to the water surface. This energy creates ripples that grow into waves.
• Wind speed and duration: A prolonged, strong wind generates larger waves. Short gusts of wind create smaller waves.
• Fetch: The distance over which the wind blows continuously over the water. In the North Sea the fetch is limited, especially with south-westerly winds, resulting in shorter, less powerful waves.

2. The Role of the Wind: Onshore versus Offshore

• Onshore Wind: This is a wind blowing from sea to land. With a south-westerly wind, this wind can quickly build up waves due to the limited fetch. These waves can be fast and chaotic, but can provide good surfing conditions when the conditions are right. However, too strong onshore winds can make the waves messy.
• Offshore Wind: This is a wind that blows from land to sea. Offshore wind causes the waves to remain undisturbed longer before they break, resulting in smooth, well-formed waves. In Callantsoog, a southeasterly offshore wind often means ideal surfing conditions, especially with a northwesterly swell.

3. What is Swell and How Does It Affect Surfing Conditions?

Swell is the term for waves generated by wind a great distance from the coast and now traveling across the ocean. In the North Sea, swells can come from different directions:

• Southwestern Swell: This is often caused by nearby storms. Due to the limited fetch in the southwest direction, these swells are often less powerful and short-lived. They can rise quickly with an onshore wind, but also disappear quickly once the wind subsides.
• Northwestern Swell: These swells come from further away, such as near the Shetland Islands or even from the Atlantic Ocean. Because they have more time to travel, they develop a longer wave period and become more powerful. These swells can last for days and often offer the best surfing conditions on the Dutch coast.

4. Understanding Wave Period

Golf period is the time elapsed between two consecutive wave crests, measured in seconds. This is a crucial factor in understanding how powerful and well-structured the waves are.

• Short Wave Period (5-6 seconds): This means that the waves come in quick succession, often caused by local wind. These waves are usually less powerful and messier.
• Long Wave Period (7-12 seconds or more): Waves with a longer period have more energy and are often better shaped. They come from swells that have traveled long distances. For Callantsoog, a long wave period often means powerful, consistent waves that are perfect for surfing.

5. The Importance of the Tide

The tide plays a crucial role in determining the surfing conditions in Callantsoog. Depending on the tide, the waves can lose their strength and shape or strengthen them.

• Mid-tide: On average, the best surfing conditions are around mid-tide (the moment between high and low tide). During mid-tide the waves break on the back sandbank and continue towards the beach, making for longer rides and well-formed waves. This is often the ideal time to surf in Callantsoog.
• Low tide (ebb): When the waves are smaller, for example around 50 cm, low tide is often the best time to surf. The waves then break like a kind of beach break on the back sandbank, which ensures that there is enough power in the wave to be able to surf.
• High water (flood): With lower waves, high tide can be less suitable for surfing, because the waves often lose their strength on the rear sandbank. This means that there are few or no waves left that break properly towards the beach.
• Rising tide: A rising tide can sometimes provide an extra “push”, making the waves slightly higher or more powerful. This effect can improve surfing conditions, especially in marginal waves.
• Foreshore Sandbank: At higher wave heights (1.5 meters or more), the foreshore sandbank, a constructed sandbank approximately 1 km from the coast, can play a negative role. If the tide is too low, the waves will already break on this sandbar, meaning they lose much of their power before reaching the surf zone. At high tide, the waves roll better over this sandbank, so they arrive stronger and better shaped closer to the beach.

Double High Water or Second High Water at Den Helder:

What is it? Double high tide, also known as second high tide, is a phenomenon in which two clear peaks in high tide are observed in a tidal cycle. This means that the water level peaks twice in a row, with a short time in between during which the water level barely drops. This is especially noticeable in areas such as Den Helder.

When does it occur? Double high tides occur during specific tidal conditions and are not something that happens every day. It is usually related to spring tides, when the gravitational pull of the moon and sun coincides and causes greater water build-up. The exact time of double high tide depends on the tidal calendar and the specific location.

What causes it? This phenomenon is mainly caused by the complex interaction between the tidal currents and the geographical shape of the coastline, sandbanks, and the seabed in the Den Helder area. The shoals and catchments near Den Helder can slow down and split the water flows, temporarily 'holding' the water and causing two peaks in high water.

Influence on the surf in Callantsoog: Callantsoog is located south of Den Helder, and although it is not directly in the double high tide zone, this phenomenon can influence surfing conditions. For example, double high tides can cause longer periods of high tide, resulting in less strong currents out to sea during the outgoing tide. This can affect the strength and height of the waves, with the waves possibly being less powerful than during a normal tidal cycle.

In addition, tidal differences can influence the sandbanks, which in turn affects wave formation. For surfers, this can mean that surfing conditions are less predictable during periods of double high tide. It can also lead to longer wait times for good waves, or to the formation of less powerful but longer waves.

6. The Influence of Wind Force and Direction on Surfing Conditions

Do you want to get the most out of your surfing experience in Callantsoog? Then it is important to understand the wind force and direction. Here's an overview of how different wind conditions can affect your surfing, shown in Beauford scale (Bft):

• Bft 0-2 (Quiet to Soft Breeze, 0-12 km/h):
  With almost no wind to a light breeze you usually have a calm sea with fairly smooth waves. This is ideal for beginners or for a relaxed surfing day. The waves often break evenly and are less affected by the wind, which makes for a pleasant surfing experience.
• Bft 3-4 (Moderate to Fairly strong breeze, 13-28 km/h):
  A moderate to fairly strong breeze causes the waves to become a bit rippled and break a little faster.
• Bft 5 and higher (Strong Breeze and Stronger Wind, 29 km/h and more):
  With strong breezes and higher wind speeds, the waves become messy and unpredictable. Surfing under these conditions quickly becomes more difficult and is also called sloshing. You're more likely to spend a lot of time on the water without doing many good rides. Wind speeds above 5 Bft are far from optimal and often cause a lot of current and flattened pools that are actually not easy to surf.

Wind direction:

• Onshore Wind (from sea to land): An onshore wind, such as from the southwest, can make the waves steeper and more powerful, but also messier. Make sure you get the timing right to take full advantage of these conditions.
• Offshore Wind (from land to sea): An offshore wind, such as from the northeast, helps the waves stay longer and better shaped, which is ideal for a good surfing experience.
• Side-Shore Wind (from the side): A side wind can stabilize the waves and provide more consistent refraction. This can provide pleasant conditions without large fluctuations in the waveform.

7. Effect of Current on Surfing Conditions in Callantsoog

In Callantsoog, the current plays an important role in surfing conditions, and is strongly influenced by the tide and water movement in the Wadden Sea near Den Helder. Here's how currents can affect your surfing experience:

1. Current and tide

• Rising and Falling Tides:
  The current in Callantsoog is strongly influenced by the tides of the Wadden Sea, especially near Den Helder. When the tide rises (high tide), water flows into the Wadden Sea. This causes a current to the north along the coast. When the tide goes out (ebb), the water flows back from the Wadden Sea, which causes the current to the south.
• Strength of the Current:
  At high tide, when the water level rises, there may be a strong current towards the coast. This can affect surfing conditions by bringing the water to the beach faster and more powerfully. At low tide the current can decrease, which sometimes results in a calmer sea surface but also in a reduced wave frequency.
• Influence of wind and tide:
  The wind strength and direction can also strengthen the current, if the wind blows along the coast this creates a stronger current. The tide is not the same every day and there are days when there is a lot of difference between high and low tide and the time in between also varies. For example, a rapidly rising tide can also cause more current.

2. Effects on Surf Conditions

• Rising Tide:
  During a rising tide, the current can bring the waves to the beach and provide a more constant wave frequency. This can be beneficial for surfers, especially if the tide causes waves to break better on the sandbanks closer to shore.
• Descending Tide:
  When the tide goes out, the current can cause waves to be removed more quickly, sometimes resulting in a reduction in the waves and their strength. This can be especially noticeable with smaller waves, which have less impact during low tide.
• Current at Tides:
  The current can also affect how easily you can get in and out of the water. Strong currents can make it more difficult to paddle back to the surf zone, especially during strong tides. It is important to take the current into account and adjust your surfing strategy accordingly.

8. Surf Forecasts and Weather Sites

To find the best surfing conditions, it is important to consult weather sites that provide wind, swell and tide forecasts. Here are some useful websites you can use:

1. Windfinder: Provides detailed information about wind speed, wind direction, and wave height.
2. Windguryou: Provides comprehensive swell and wind forecasts specifically for surfers.
3. Meteoblue: Visualizes wave height, wind speed, and other meteorological data.
4. for more current measurement data:

• Rijkswaterstaat OS Viewer: Provides real-time data on waves and currents in the North Sea.
• Water information Rijkswaterstaat: Real-time information about wave height and other water data.
• North Sea current information: current current information for the North Sea.

7. Summary: What You Need to Know for Surfing in Callantsoog

• Mid-tide: On average the best time for surfing, because the waves break well on the back sandbank and continue towards the beach.
• Low tide (with smaller waves): Surf at low tide when the waves are lower (around 50 cm), because the waves break better on the back sandbank.
• High tide (with smaller waves): Less suitable because waves lose their strength on the rear sandbank, leaving few good waves.
• Rising tide: Can provide extra push, which is beneficial for the waves, especially in marginal surf.
• Foreshore Sandbank: With high waves (1.5 meters or more), a low tide can reduce the force of the waves because they break early on this sandbank. At high tide, the waves roll better over the sandbank and remain more powerful.
• Onshore Wind (e.g. Southwest): Can quickly build up waves for an often more unexpected surf session, but the conditions are difficult to predict so make sure you check the situation at the beach or on the webcam more often.
• Offshore Wind (e.g. Southeast): Provides smooth, well-formed waves and is ideal for a northwesterly swell with the right wind conditions.
• Southwestern Swell: Less powerful and short-lived; for an often more unexpected surf session, but the conditions are difficult to predict, so make sure you check the situation more often at the beach or on the webcam.
• Northwestern Swell: Powerful, long lasting, and ideal for surfing, especially with longer wave periods and the right wind conditions.
• Wave period: The longer the period, the more powerful and better the waves. Look for periods of 7 seconds or more for the best conditions.

With this basic knowledge you are better equipped to read the surf conditions in Callantsoog and choose the right moments for a great